Portland Mountain Rescue

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Safe Climbing

Locator Beacons and Portland Mountain Rescue’s Four Elements of Safety

1. KNOW THE CONDITIONS

Weather, snow and avalanche conditions are vital data that you must gather before you go: no exceptions.
Mt. Hood:

  • National Weather Service: Forecast for Mt. Hood– South Side, 9000ft
  • Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center Backcountry Avalanche Forecast, Mt. Hood
  • Winds Aloft Chart (for PDX Airport) – Explanation of Winds Aloft
    For Winds Aloft charts near other mountains, start here. Use the third map “ETA Model UPPER/ALOFT” and pick the airport(s) nearest your desired peak.
  • Watch the Video:
    Climbing Mt. Hood – Key Points to Know Before the Climb
  • Quick forecast for any mountain worldwide:
    www.mountain-forecast.com

2. KNOW YOUR ROUTE

There is no substitute for awareness of where you are and where you will be. Bring your GPS, map and compass. More info below.

  • Mt. Hood Route Descriptions from SummitPost.com
  • Oregon Cascades Forum from CascadeClimbers.com
  • Mt. Hood South Side Landmark Map
  • Watch the Video: Routes & Hazards on Mt. Hood’s South Side

3. BE PREPARED

If you know your trip’s route, conditions, and timeframe, you can determine what you need to bring. Climbers on Mt. Hood, even in excellent weather, should be equipped with the “10 Essentials” on every outing, as their lives may depend on it.

Also learn about The Cell Phone as a Rescue Resource

PMR’s 10 Essentials include:

  1. navigation tools (map, compass, GPS, and knowhow)
  2. skin and eye protection (sunscreen, goggles, sunglasses)
  3. extra clothes (gloves, hat, insulated jacket)
  4. extra food and water (for at least one day)
  5. a light source (headlamp or flashlight, extra batteries)
  6. first aid kid
  7. signaling devices (whistle, cellphone, InReach, PLB or SPOT)
  8. shelter (tarp or bivy sack, closed cell foam pad, aluminum snow shovel)
  9. stove and fuel, weatherproof matches or lighter
  10. and … common sense

4. HAVE a BACKUP PLAN

Locator beacons are a part of your ‘backup plan’. To increase the likelihood that you will be found alive, bring that beacon, as well as:

  • Leave an itinerary with someone who can contact authorities if you’re overdue.
  • Bring what you will need to keep you fed, warm, clothed and hydrated if you have to stay out for an extended period of time. [Examples of such gear include emergency bivouac equipment (stove, tent, fuel, bivvy sac), flares, extra batteries, and first-aid equipment.]
  • Ensure that those traveling with you are prepared for the trip and know how to safely travel in the backcountry.
  • Watch the Video: PMR’s Rescue Timeline

  • See below for information on using locator beacons as tools for backcountry emergency preparedness and read Locating Beacons Explained

    Personal Locator Beacons: Click here to learn how to get one and how they work. Please note that PLB’s must either be purchased or rented online. Use the code MTHOOD any time during the winter season to rent a PLB for $5 from the website we linked to above (www.plbrentals.com), and remember that they must be rented in advance and will be shipped to you.

 
Portland Mountain Rescue's FOUR ELEMENTS of SAFETY:

1. KNOW the conditions
2. KNOW your route
3. Be PREPARED
4. HAVE a BACKUP PLAN

Locator beacons are a valuable search tool, and Portland Mountain Rescue encourages their use. However, please remember: locator beacons do not guarantee a life-saving rescue. They are not a substitute for training or survival gear.

Learn more: Locating Beacons Explained

At-a-glance information about locator beacons:

PLB

Personal Locator Beacons (PLB's) use satellite technology and will automatically contact authorities with your GPS coordinates. They are not available locally for rent. Advanced planning for your trip is needed if you wish to use this type of equipment.

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Address
Portland Mtn Rescue
P.O. Box 5391
Portland, Oregon 97228
Phone
In an EMERGENCY immediately call 911 After you hang up, save your cell phone battery and keep your phone available for further contact with rescue personnel.
503-222-PMRU (7678)
E-mail
info@pmru.org
CONTRIBUTE
no charge for rescue

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Photographs courtesy of Matt Weaver.

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